Hermès Eau de Rhubarbe Écarlate, a vibrant and unexpected fragrance launched in 2016, transcends the typical boundaries of perfumery. Created by the masterful nose Christine Nagel, this unisex scent is a testament to Hermès' commitment to crafting unique and captivating olfactory experiences. Far from being a simple rhubarb fragrance, Eau de Rhubarbe Écarlate is a complex and multifaceted composition that unfolds beautifully on the skin, revealing layers of surprising depth and sophistication. This article delves into the intricacies of this captivating Eau de Cologne, exploring its notes, its evolution on the skin, its versatility, and its place within the Hermès fragrance portfolio.
A Bold Departure: Rhubarb as the Star
The immediate and striking element of Eau de Rhubarbe Écarlate is, of course, the rhubarb. However, this isn't the tart, almost acidic rhubarb of a homemade pie filling. Instead, Nagel masterfully captures the vibrant, slightly bittersweet, and unexpectedly floral facets of the ingredient. The rhubarb note here is not merely a top note; it acts as a powerful backbone, a vibrant thread that weaves its way through the entire composition, giving the fragrance its unique character. It's a crimson thread, a scarlet hue that lends its name to the perfume, a color that speaks to both boldness and a subtle elegance.
While the official top note breakdown is often omitted, the initial impression is a burst of fresh, almost sparkling rhubarb. This initial burst is not jarring; it's bright and invigorating, like a crisp spring morning. It’s a clever juxtaposition: the unexpected zestfulness of the rhubarb immediately engages the senses, promising a journey beyond the ordinary. This opening act is followed by a subtle sweetness, not overly sugary but rather a delicate, almost candied quality that adds a layer of complexity. This sweetness is not cloying; it serves to balance the tartness of the rhubarb, creating a harmony rather than a conflict of senses.
The Heart and Soul: A Floral-Woody Embrace
As the fragrance settles, the heart notes emerge, revealing a more nuanced and multifaceted character. While specific heart notes aren't explicitly listed by Hermès, the fragrance unfolds with a beautiful blend of floral and woody undertones. The floral aspect is not overtly feminine; it's more of a subtle suggestion of delicate blossoms, possibly rose or peony, adding a touch of elegance and softness to the overall composition. This floral heart is beautifully balanced by the woody notes, which add depth and warmth without overpowering the other elements. The woodiness is not heavy or masculine; rather, it's a smooth, polished presence that lends a sophisticated grounding to the fragrance. This heart phase is where the Eau de Rhubarbe Écarlate truly shines, showcasing its complexity and its ability to evolve on the skin.
The Base Notes: A Lingering Impression of Warmth and Depth
The base notes of Eau de Rhubarbe Écarlate are equally intriguing. Again, Hermès doesn't explicitly list the base notes, allowing for a degree of mystery and personal interpretation. However, a warm, slightly musky undercurrent emerges as the fragrance dries down. This base is not heavy or overpowering; it's a subtle lingering warmth that provides a comforting and sensual finish. This final stage is a testament to the fragrance's longevity; it remains present on the skin for hours, leaving a subtle yet unforgettable impression. This lingering warmth and subtle muskiness suggest a sophisticated blend of possibly amber, cedar, or even a touch of vanilla, all working in harmony to create a truly captivating base.
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